Bite Autumn 2012

designer profile

sculptor and a designer.” Thomas then revealed what matters to him the most as a designer: “ The moment I see the ecstatic smile of a girl/ woman who has just seen or tried on one of my pieces and asks where she can purchase one.” As I listened to Thomas tell me about the perks of being an independent jewellery designer, it was interesting to hear what he had to say and the logic of his thinking around the subject. “ The perks of being a jewellery designer are that I can easily carry around my own collection. Precious and semi-precious stones and metals are also able to release a very powerful energy, so dealing with these kinds of materials enables me to enrich my personal Karma. The beauty of having my own label can be translated with one Italian motto: ‘chi mi ama mi segua’ which in English can be roughly translated as ‘let I be followed by those who love me’; by this I mean that having my own label has eventually given me the opportunity of creating and producing eclectic pieces that are not always commercially sound but are rich in character. Whoever is a fan of Toto Design will be able to follow its development and enjoy it in the near future at its best.”A very interesting answer, I thought. The first article of jewellery Thomas designed were a pair of rings inspired by the surfing community. “The rings are designed so that the top section is shaped as a wave.When worn by two different people the rings interlock the moment the two users decide to shake hands in an unusual way by having their fists one against the other. Although this is not typically the way surfers greet each other, the wave shape links the rings to this social group.The inspiration came to me as homage to my brother Luca who has been surfing all over the globe since he was a teenager and is always in search of the next perfect wave.” So what would Thomas say his design signature is? “The jewellery I design is not understated but is actually quite bold and almost Baroque at times. I enjoy mixing different materials together and playing with the contrast created by having different metal finishes together in the same piece.Texture is important on the surface of components and chains and gives the pieces a feel of antique.”And how long does it usually take to construct a piece? “This really depends on how intricate the design of the piece is and what kind of material I am using, it can take me a day as much as a whole week. Fine jewellery design and construction requires a long process and it has taken me up to a whole month to finish one specific piece.” While collaborating with Mexx Europe one of his accomplishments was increasing the profits with his designs. “When I started my collaboration with Mexx Europe my category was down in respect to the previous year, and when I left the company the ranges I designed myself were performing on target with an increase in profit of 20% compared to the previous year.” So in his opinion what makes a quality piece? “I believe a quality article is made by the research and thought put into designing a piece prior to its creation. The quality of materials is also crucial to making a great article. In the case of garments and accessories I am a

of sketching his designs and constructing them to create his collection. “Sometimes I find great materials and it is just a question of putting them together to make a piece and other times it is better to sketch the pieces on CAD so that the originality of the idea is preserved and explored.” Antique silver and antique gold metal finishes are named as his favourite colours to work with as well as the combination of gunmetal finish with rose gold and antique matt gold metal finish. He also enjoys working with silver due to the metal being very soft, easy to work with and longer lasting. He added, “Glass, crystal and plexiglass are also great materials to work with. I am very passionate about semiprecious stones as much as mixing metal and fabrics together.” To Thomas designing is “where logic and physics meet creative and artistic.” Thomas elaborates, “I enjoy designing especially when it means creating something that does not exist. Designing means working well in a team as it usually involves working with buyers, creative directors, product developers and visual merchandisers.” So what advice would he give to aspiring jewellery designers? “Never stop working hard and always pursue your passion and drive to achieve your highest goal. We are all humans and aspiring high can only make us better.” To conclude our discussion, I asked Thomas what his future goals are. “My goal was to organize a catwalk in Tuscany last summer and to work on Toto Design’s website. Organising production and sourcing is also something that will need to be sorted as soon as possible. I will also continue to nourish my collaborations with other fashion houses. My end goal is to have my brand established and running smoothly within the next five years.”

great believer of the importance of stitching as it can really make or break the beauty of a garment/piece.” Thomas is inspired by several designers such as award winning celebrity jewellery designer Shaun Leane, Erikson Beamond, Lara Bohinc, Oscar De la Renta, Rodrigo Otazu, VivienneWestwood and Lanvin. On the subject of favourite models, he told me, “I love models that have a great face. Accessories and jewellery are better modelled on a fresh and gorgeous face; the body is less important but still has to be proportioned. My favourite models of the fashion industry are Naomi Campbell, Gisele Bundchen, Adriana Lima, and also David Gandy and Tyson Beckford.” And if he could choose any celebrity to wear his pieces, who would they be? “I would love Angela Rafanelli to wear my jewellery. Angela is an emerging actress on Italian digital TV, she has a very beautiful face with soft features and a great smile. She is also a friend of mine although we rarely see each other. I would also love Devon Aoki and Lily Cole to wear my jewellery.” When preparing for a fashion shoot or show, Thomas preaches that it is crucial for the models to have good make-up and good hair. “It is also important that I make sure the jewellery and accessories match the garments used during the shoot. Matching colours and metal finishes to the right garment is essential to a good photo shoot.”He enjoys both aspects