Bite Autumn 2012

bite book reviews

H is elegant and beautifully designed shoes and famously renowned, highly vertical stilettos have adorned the feet of many women around the world, including red carpet celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Madonna, Rihanna, Blake Lively and Jennifer Lopez. In the second Sex andThe City movie, actresses Kristin Davis and Sarah Jessica Parker are seen showing off the signature lacquer- red soles of their Christian Louboutin shoes on the streets of NewYork with a sexuality that could only be derived from a Christian Louboutin creation. The book Christian Louboutin, an extraordinary monograph created by the shoe designer himself, involves an in-depth interview between novelist and artistic director Eric Reinhardt and Christian Louboutin. It reveals a personal account of the designer’s life, travels and inspirations from his laid back teenage days in Paris, the start of his design career at Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent and the opening of his first boutique in 1992. Brilliantly written and extremely creative, this intriguing biography gives an in-depth account of the man behind many eclectic and exotic designs such as the Pansies series which started off the signature red sole, the classic Pigalle, the Yves Saint Laurent shoe with the brand’s insignia, Maralena inspired by the figure of German-American actress Marlene Dietrich and Dolly Forever, inspired by the legs of singer Tina Turner. The book also features images of Louboutin boutiques from around the world, the spectacular interior of his homes in Paris and Luxor, Egypt and a chapter on “20 years of design”, which highlights the artistry and theatricality of his shoe designs over the years with still-life photography captured by French fine art and commercial photographer Philippe Garcia. The “Fetish” chapter focuses on his creative collaboration with American filmmaker and visual artist David Lynch, showcasing Louboutin limited-edition shoes which are merely for display rather than to be worn and limited-edition photos by Lynch. The last chapter is a complete catalogue raisonne of his work, with photos of all 120 shoe designs. The foreword given by actor and producer John Malkovich, who is also a fashion designer with his label, Technobohemian, details his first contact with Christian Louboutin. It was at an award ceremony in Paris that his eyes fell upon the most extraordinary pair of shoes he had ever seen, worn by a well-

Images courtesy of Rizzoli NewYork

as one of the leading designers of our time. Christian always seems to challenge himself with every collection, and may it ever be thus.” The book contains an account of the many people and events that have influenced and played a major part

known French novelist. Upon questioning the novelist on who had designed the shoes, she revealed it was made by a young French shoemaker called Christian Louboutin and explained that it would be too difficult for her to express what made this designer’s work so special,

striking and unique. She suggested he pass by the designer’s shop on rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau and see for himself. “The next morning I did just that,” he writes, “and I remember the distinct feeling that I was looking at the artistry of someone who was doing what no one else was.” From that moment onwards, John Malkovich followed Christian Louboutin’s work and has also had the privilege of working with him on a few small projects in fashion and cinema. “One of the most rare and attractive qualities in an artist are when he has a love of work:love of creation, love of invention, love of imagination, and, of course, love of detail. All of these qualities are in abundance in the work of Christian Louboutin.” Ending his foreword he says,“I’ve always loved to walk into one of his stores – and he has more than a few around the world now – and take the time to view Christian’s collections piece by piece, looking at the overall concept, the styles, the materials, the forms, and, of course, the effect. His wit and style and passion and inventiveness mark him

in Louboutin’s life. Included in these accounts was a documentary that Louboutin saw on Italian actress Sophia Loren’s life which showed her sister receiving a diploma at fifty years of age ( which led him to the conclusion that if he ever regretted leaving school at sixteen with no qualifications, he’ll do like Sophia Loren’s sister and go back at fifty to earn his diploma). Also, Christian Dior fashion director Hélène de Mortemart who got Louboutin an internship at Charles Jourdan, the manufacturer for Christian Dior shoes at the time, French fashion designer Roger Vivier who specialised in shoes, created the stiletto heel and taught the young Louboutin a few valuable lessons, and, of course, the many women whose femininity has provided the basis for Christian Louboutin’s beautifully designed and creative shoes. A must-have for shoe enthusiasts, Christian Louboutin is published by Rizzoli NewYork. www.rizzoliusa.com